Lazing in Nazaré

nah zah RAY

“Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind.” – Seneca

An Atlantic coast fishing town turned resort, is both black shawl traditional and beach friendly.
Nazaré is famous for its women who wear skirts with seven petticoats (one for each day, or for the seven colors of the rainbow). In the old days, women would sit on the beach waiting for their fishermen to sail home. To keep warm in the face of a cold sea wind while staying modestly covered, they’d wear several petticoats so they could fold layers over their heads, backs, and legs. For another slice of local life, on the main street in front of the market (and near the bus station), we saw petticoat-wearing women holding quartos signs – advertising rooms in private homes.
Sitting quietly atop its cliff is the Sítio neighborhood. It used to be a totally separate village but in 1912 the entire area merged to make Nazaré. We took this handy funicular up, originally built in 1889 by a disciple of Eiffel.
The equipment and stations, however, have been modernized.
Talk about a bird’s eye view!!!
When we got off of the funicular we walked to the end of the road and to Farol lighthouse, where we enjoyed a panoramic view of the north beach. But mostly, we hoped to see surfers! Surfers around the world regard Nazaré as the home of the ultimate thrill. We had read that November was peak time for waves so we didn’t expect it to be extraordinary. It was still wonderful to see and imagine 30 meter waves!
The various colors were so pretty.
Never having been on a tuk tuk, we decided to splurge and ride one uphill and back to the main road. We didn’t mind skipping the steep walk either 😉
Preparing and selling fish is the lot of Nazaré women married to fishermen.
Mackerel crucifixion zone” – where ladies still sun dry their mackerel, sardines, and other goodies from the sea.
A beautiful end to our day.

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